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Dangers of climbing Mt. Elbrus.
The main danger on Mt Elbrus is to lose your way. Glaciers of Elbrus
are very big and no guiding line can be seen in a fog. If you lose your way you
can go miles and miles across the crevasse areas. It is very dangerous. You can
climb Elbrus easy if the weather is good but snow storm or even fog makes things
absolutely different.
Next danger is icy spots above Pastuckhov Rocks. They may be extremely
dangerous in winter (hard ice) and may require a belay. Many people even
experienced climbers died slipping there.
Lack of acclimatization is the third danger. If you feel really bad
the only escape is going dawn. Do not stay somewhere to have a rest. It may be
fatal.
Where to overnight during the climb.
- There are two mountain lodges nearby cable car station in the valley
("Azau" lodge and "Logovo" lodge). Also you can place tents on the river bank
right under the cable car station.
- There was a kind of a lodge at the "Mir" upper cable car station. Now it's out
of order and closed.
- Next are "Barrels" huts near the upper chair lift station. Places for tents
are about 200-300 m above "Barrels" on a rock edge to the left.
- Next is "Priut-11" spot. "Priut-11" lodge was destroyed by fire . There is
"Diesel" hut nearby. (it is not completely ready inside, but ok for hosting,
capacity - up to 40 people by now)
- Places for tents are above "Priut-11" on the rock edges to the right and to
the left. There is a kind of small refuge (just a big box) on the left-hand edge
(fully occupied during high seson).
- Rescue guard occupies the right-hand edge (two small huts) and pretend to be
the only tenant of that edge (although there are dozens places for tents).
Negotiate.
- You can find a place for your tent on the rock edges up to Pastuckhova Rocks.
There are some places for tents on the Pastuckhova Rocks (upper end).
- Next point is Elbrus saddle. There is a hut ruins before the saddle. You can
stay near the ruins. Also there is a kind of ice cave nearby. It is heated
by volcano steam, so it is possible to stay there even without a tent. However
it is very hard to find its tight entrance if you do it for the first time.
Rescue and medical facilities.
There are two rescue posts in the Elbrus Region: in Terskol and at
"Shkhelda" alpine camp.
Climbers are recommended to register in the nearest rescue post. It is free.
Their staff can give you an advice about your climb (some of them speaks basic
English).
There are first aid points in Terskol and at the Cheget hotel. The nearest
hospital is in Tirnyauz and has great experience in 'apres-climbing' treatment.
If something goes wrong you may want to ask for a help. Generally there are many
Russian people on the way so they will find the proper way. There is a
rescue post on the right rock edge 400 meters from Pruit-11 (Diesel hut), next
possibility is "Diesel" hut itself. The posts work during summer season only.
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These are just advices not really obligation, if you are experienced traveler
you have your own opinion to the matter, of course......
Do use sun-block lotion and sunglasses. Have a reserve and never go
higher then 3000 m without them.
Do travel in a group, try to join a group at the airport or train
station. It's cheaper and safer.
Do close the doors in your room and lock the door (close the window)
when you go out even for 5 minutes.
Do
sharpen your crampons and ice axe if you climb in winter.
Do not
go to some border passes where you may be robbed by Georgian people ('Svan'
people). See these passes on the map. Also
you may have problems with border guard there.
Do not
leave your belongings or tents unattended.
Do not
try to climb Mt. Elbrus in a fog or snow storm. Losing the right
way may be fatal.
Do not
give tips for service (except professional mountain guides). Small gifts like a
knife or T-shirt or bandana is better way to show your respect and gratitude.
Do not
present second hand packages as an act of charity, it may be offensive for
people.
Try do not
land close to villages if you paraglide. Some local people consider this
harmful for grass (!) and there may be a problem.
Do not
overnight on high altitude if you (or your friend) feel really bad. Go down!
Overnight or even long staying for rest may be fatal.
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What are
communication possibilities in that region?
You can use Internet service in Nalchik, Piatigorsk and Mineralnie Vody from
some "Internet-cafes". You can call overseas in every town from a post office.
In Baksan Valley you can make a call from Terskol (post office) and Elbrus (post
office) You can use mobile phone (standard GSM 900) in Mineralnie Vody,
Piatigorsk - ask your local mobile phone service provider if they support
roaming service in that region. Also sometimes it was possible to use a mobile
phone directly from the top of Elbrus as there is a direct sight to Piatigorsk
from the summit. Global satellite systems worked good in the valley and on the
summit - Inmarsat and Globalstar.
There are many companies offering Mt
Elbrus climb trips with very different prices. What is the difference between
companies?
All international companies use Russian companies (or at least independent
guides) to provide a tour. They may change partners every year but this market
is not big and generally they eat from one plate anyway. There are 4 types
of companies offering Elbrus climb.
- Exclusive companies (International, mostly American), they ask a lot
of money for the tour and you pay for the honor to go in one group with a famous
mountaineer (American, of course). These guys go as a mountain guide with a
group. Anyway these companies use same Russian partners and guides like others
and no other advantages or better service are provided.
- Normal companies (International), they provide their representative
in addition to Russian guides, sometimes not experienced mountaineer just
to be sure that everything goes right way with their Russian partner and
because it is customary. These companies may be twice and more cheaper then
exclusive ones. Quality of service depends of Russian partner.
- Russian companies, they are twice and more cheaper than 'Normal' ones.
The reason is that they agree with less profit and mainly have less expenses
(for marketing, taxes and salary). As these companies are same people that
International companies use for their tour the quality and services are same.
However the service quality level may be different in different companies.
- Russian independent guides, sometimes one person sometimes a group of
people, the cheapest way to go. They have no permanent office or job and their
expenses are minimal as they do not to pay taxes at all. Mostly they find
clients through friends and Russian tourist companies hire them as additional
staff on high season. Quality of service is unpredictable and depends on the
concrete day and person. However many independent travelers like this friendly
kind of travel and do not expect good service.
Food and meals.
You can buy food in small private shops in the valley:
- Always available: Canned food (meat, corn, green peas), chocolate, biscuits,
sugar, tea, coffee, cereals, noodles, confectionery, soft and strong drinks,
beer. The quality is not very good but reasonable.
- Sometimes: Bread, cheese, vegetables, fruits, dry food (soups). If you need
these buy as soon as you see them. Also you can negotiate for local cheese or
bread in a shop even if it is not seen at the counter (shopping "under the
counter").
The working hours of these small shops are unpredictable.
It is better (you can get all range of food there) and cheaper to buy food in
the markets and shops in big cities, like Nalchik or Mineralnye Vody or
Tirnyauz, not in the valley (the time when you are going from the airport, ask a
driver to stop at a local market) .
Drinks: Beer is generally good enough just look at the date of expire. Generally
all vines and brandy are awful. Vodka is ok, just ask for good bit more
expensive brands. There are only good sorts of vine and brandy - brand name
'Praskoveiskoie' but it is hard to find them in the valley.
Accommodation
Hotels and Alpine camps in the valley are poorly managed and offer poor
services. The hotels have private washing and toilet facilities, mountain lodges
and alpine camps (bases) have communal facilities. Meals are virtually same.
Service in a lodges is better, if you need something you can easily negotiate
with an owner.
In working order now:
Azau spot: "Logovo" mountain lodge and Cable station "Azau" mountain
lodge.
Terskol village: "Wolfram" hotel, "Terskol" hotel.
Cheget spot: "Cheget" hotel, some mountain lodges under construction.
"Masha's" lodge - new right at the entrance to the Cheget, owner's name is Masha
(Ms). "Gorianka" lodge (and cafe) on the crossroad to Cheget.
Itkol spot: "Itkol" hotel.
Along (down) the Baksan Valley: "Tegenekly" base, "Adyl-Su" alpine camp.
Adyl-Su Valley: "Shchelda" and "Elbrus" Alpine camps. "Jantugan"
base is closed.
Adyr-Su Valley: "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp.
Places for tents: There are no special places for tents now. You can
place a tent anywhere but you must remember that there is no guard to keep your
tents safe. The better choice is to put a tent on an alpine camp territory.
"Adyl-Su" alpine camp is recommended. A spot opposite (cross the river) Jantugan
base is well known.
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